Tag Archives: Arbois

Domaine L’Octavin “Foutre d’Escampette” NV

Petnat or Petillant Naturel = naturally occurring bubbles that are a bi-product of fermentation finishing in the bottle. The bubbles tend to be lighter and may wear off, the grapes have been vinified with native yeasts and no sulfites added anytime, anywhere.

Poudre d’escampette = french saying that means “to clear out/run away as fast as you can”

Foutre = french slang for “semen”

Substitute Foutre for Poudre and you have a play on words that ends up meaning something like “Semen’s Escape” or “Jerk Off Wine”. As many French bio winemakers are doing these days, vulgar derivatives, slang, vaginas, political knocks and appellation fuck-yous are part of the culture of wine rebellion and revolution. This is mainly an attempt to call attention to the control the government has on regulating wine production and its various methods that prevent many smaller wine makers from producing and selling their wine (internationally or at all). It’s also calling attention to the need to reevaluate the use of chemicals and pesticides, and instead turning back towards natural and ancestral methods that are more in line with the earth’s cycles. It takes all elitism out of the equation too, which is too often the swamp most people get lost in with wine. Made by the people, for the people. Not only does each wine’s character reflect the character of the individual, it’s also an expression of the (here I go) terroir it comes from.

But seriously, try some…you can’t deny it.

Domaine de l’Octavin, Vin de France Trousseau “Les Corvées”, 2012

Intentionally labeled as a Vin de France, not an Arbois. The appellation wouldn’t allow the name due to the alchohol content falling below the minimum 10% (it rests at 9.8%). Very versatile, fun wine that is as light as a rosé but has the body and texture of a red. This particular bottle was shared with friends at a Chinese food/wine throw-down, and went incredibly well with salt & pepper shrimp, clams, lobster and pea shoots.

Michel Gahier, Vin Jaune, Arbois, 2005

 

Drinking this gave me incredible powers of lucidity and future recall. I also spoke in prose and saw the world in blue and yellow hues. Absinthe? No, just good old Vin Jaune.

“In the hundred thousand millions of worlds dispersed over the regions of space, everything goes on by degrees. Our little terraqueous globe here is the madhouse of those hundred thousand millions of worlds.” -Voltaire

Jacques Puffeney, Trousseau Cuvee “Les Berangers”, Arbois, 2012

 

After trying the distinctive Poulsard by Jacques Puffeney, it took all my willpower not to throw my entire line of credit at a case of this, which I hadn’t even tried yet. And it didn’t disappoint- for anyone who wants something with more structure and less citric acid than Poulsard, this is the winner.

Trousseau is like the anonymous cousin that skipped school and became a Jiu Jitsu fighter but always had a soft spot for 17th century Italian paintings. And ditched all the family get togethers. Alternatively known as Bastardo (in Spain & Portugal), it turns out that its siblings include Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc (although it is a red varietal, there is also Trousseau Gris). The name Trousseau came to be after some spelling variations, and is ironically the same word used for a woman’s conubial accoutrements (bride to be lingerie, linens, etc). I like to think the similarity goes deeper than the way the grape “bunches” on the vine: perhaps its finicky nature, needing to be primed and plucked and cared for, makes it a hassle for most vitners who choose not to pursue her, save the Jura.