Tag Archives: Rosé

NV Paul Bara “Grand Rosé”, Brut Grand Cru, Bouzy

-35 year old vines (av.) grown in clay & limestone soil

-76 % Pinot Noir, 19 % Chardonnay, 5% Red wine

-A combination of direct press, saignée, and Bouzy Rouge

-Aged in bottle for 3 years before release

-Dosage: 10.8 g/l

Powerful, delicate, chalky minerality, effortless nuance of strawberry, one of the best sparkling rosés I’ve ever had. Photo taken at Marta, Roman pizzeria in Manhattan. Drank with smoked mackerel and scallop crudo.

 

iGreco “Savú” Rosato, 2011

Delicious! Weird! Bad label! Rosé but not!

Following my last post about rosé/rosato (Teres Primitivo), I think the Italians might be reinventing the flavors we associate with this style. In the glass it has a brownish tint and you wonder “is this still good?”, then you smell and its all clay and tomato and you think “weird. this is going to taste horrible…” then you swill and sip and its minerally and clean but heavy and your tongue feels bouncy because it is completely delicious and alive. If this was tasted blind, I might have mistaken it for a white wine, but if it was drank at a warmer temperature I might’ve thought it was a super light red. This grape is not yet on the public radar: Gaglioppo.

 

Fatalone “Teres”, Primitivo 2013

 

The rosé craze in recent years has unwittingly created a whole genre of thick, pink liquid sugar acid which, in my opinion, tastes less and less like wine and more like soda meets cough syrup. I carefully blazed my way through this trend by drinking aged whites (“orange wine”), lambrusco, freisa, pelaverga, poulsard, and other light reds that like to a chill. So when my friend Richard replaced the bottle I was about to buy with this rosé, I had no idea I was in for delicious.

This is maddeningly good wine. It is the most “masculine” rosé I’ve ever tasted; so much structure to it the fruit is more in the exhale than in the glass. You can taste the clay in the soil, almost strong enough that you’re licking a mineral block, which is pretty cool for a red wine. It’s everything you need a red wine to be in the heat of summer, but definitely substantial enough to carry through the colder seasons. Also, Primitivo? So much character, so much depth….look at you, all grown up.