Tag Archives: Violette Imports

Fatalone “Teres”, Primitivo 2013

 

The rosé craze in recent years has unwittingly created a whole genre of thick, pink liquid sugar acid which, in my opinion, tastes less and less like wine and more like soda meets cough syrup. I carefully blazed my way through this trend by drinking aged whites (“orange wine”), lambrusco, freisa, pelaverga, poulsard, and other light reds that like to a chill. So when my friend Richard replaced the bottle I was about to buy with this rosé, I had no idea I was in for delicious.

This is maddeningly good wine. It is the most “masculine” rosé I’ve ever tasted; so much structure to it the fruit is more in the exhale than in the glass. You can taste the clay in the soil, almost strong enough that you’re licking a mineral block, which is pretty cool for a red wine. It’s everything you need a red wine to be in the heat of summer, but definitely substantial enough to carry through the colder seasons. Also, Primitivo? So much character, so much depth….look at you, all grown up.

Domaine Julien Guillot, Mâcon-Cruzille Cuvée 910, Clos des Vignes du Maynes, 2011

Unlike a lot of its friends in the natural wine world, this is really delicate, even austere, while remaining an enigma among Burgundy. It’s not like the red carpet Burgundies, but it’s not hicktown either. It’s actually a blend of red & white: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, & Gamay. The grapes are harvested, pressed and bottled by hand, by the original methods of the growers who began cultivating vines here  c. 910 A.D.

There is an incredible energy and balance to this wine. It must be that Julien Guillot, the wine acrobat, is so intuitive at understanding how nature works, adjusting each plot to the seasonal discrepancies and knowing that no two harvests are the same, and placing value in that. It can be sensed so clearly. I bet each vintage expresses itself so differently, it being a blend with nothing but wild yeasts. I know that’s said to be a bad thing in the mainstream wine critic/scholar game of rules, but to me its exciting. There was so much happening in that glass of wine, I’m pretty sure I didn’t taste all of it. Moaybe the previous year would help me understand this one better? And next year. And always.

Domaine Les Fouques, Cuvée de L’Aubigue Rouge

crispy fall air makes me crave heat; pepper and jam, something lighter bodied but with grip, and bolder tannins.  a word to the wise: do not underestimate biodynamic vineyards. they nail seasonal cravings, like this little vineyard in provence has done. lately i’ve been extremely curious about southern france (provence, languedoc-rousillon and south west regions). i was surprised to learn from this wine that in France, syrah is not limited to the Rhone Valley.  it turns out that understanding the soil, climate, a grape’s needs, the seasons, how to blend varietals… all really, really, help even the most jaded taster to overcome her fears.

Osé Blanc Sec, Château Richard, 2011

this is the most wild, energetic, potent white wine I’ve ever had. during the first fall chill, i brought it home and had a sip. i had to sit down. i just stared at the glass, letting the taste come alive. something like this that owns its character and doesn’t back down is absolutely NOT friendly, it is aggressive and raucous and RARE. over the past several days i’ve had a glass after work, and with time the wine has become a deep amber, deliciously tart and acidic. surprisingly delicate although not for the faint of tongue, it’s like drinking fresh pressed cider from peaches. there’s tons of sediment and no galore.

This wine comes from a very small biodynamic vineyard in Southwest France. You can visit them here: http://www.chateaurichard.com/codes/premiere-page.html